Zigzag Mug Rug Tutorial!

Today I have a fun little project to share, but first I want to tell you about my new toy.... I got an Accuquilt Go! baby fabric cutter a few weeks ago (right before my vacation). I picked three dies, and I decided to go with ones that aren't necessarily very easy to do with a regular ruler and rotary cutter. I got a circle die that has three sizes of circles, an equilateral triangle die that also has three sizes, and the 3 1/2" tumbler die. The Go! baby is really easy to use, and my kids were pretty much fighting for turns at cranking the handle.

I opened my Go! baby as soon as it arrived and started cutting triangles. I've been wanting to make a zigzag quilt for a while and that was what I had in mind as I cut pink, green, yellow, and white triangles from my scrap bags. (I am pretty sure that the idea of making zigzags from these kind of triangles came from my friend Lorilee, and I think it turned out pretty well!) I used the medium triangles and they finish really small (about 1" on each side) but that's ok because this is a small project.

Step 1: Use the Go! baby to cut 14 medium triangles in each of 3 colors. Also, cut 45 white triangles. Sew the triangles into rows of 7 colored triangles alternating with white triangles, and make sure a white triangle is at each end of each row.

Step 2: Sew the rows together. I started by sewing the pairs of pink, green, and yellow rows together, making sure the triangles were offset to create the zigzag. Then I sewed the three sections together, this time making sure the white triangles were offset.

Step 3: Trim the sides of the mug rug top. Trim the longer edges too, if needed.

Step 4: Layer the top with batting and backing, and secure with a few pins. Choose thread for quilting.

Step 5: Quilt. I used my walking foot and matching thread to quilt down the middle of each zigzag row. Then I trimmed the excess batting and backing fabric.

Step 6: Bind. I found this single binding tutorial and changed it up a bit by machine sewing the binding first to the back and then machine sewing it down in the front. I think next time I use this technique I will go with a 1.5" binding strip instead of 1.25".

All done! (It finished up at 6 1/2" x 8" in case you were wondering.) Now I have a place to keep my big sweaty glass of ice water all summer long. You could use the larger triangle on this die to maybe make a mug rug with one zigzag stripe, or you could make a placemat or larger quilt easily with that larger triangle. If you make a project with this tutorial, please let me know--I'd love to see it! (Somebody needs to make a Charlie Brown placemat or mug rug...)

I will be giving away an Accuquilt Go! Baby along with the winner's choice of three dies to one of my readers very soon, stay tuned!

Piecing Batting by Machine Tutorial

Hi friends! Just wanted to let you know I have a quick little tutorial on how to machine piece batting into larger pieces... over at Chasing Cottons where Rebecca has been hosting Quilt Class 101 over the last several weeks. Thanks so much to Rebecca for letting me join in!

Scrappy Stocking Tutorial

Today I'm guest posting at Stash Manicure... head on over if you'd like to see my tutorial to make a stocking like this one!

Chicken Quilt Block Tutorial

Here are instructions for making a chicken quilt block. This block is 7x8 inches as shown and will end up 6.5x7.5 inches when sewn into a quilt. All seam allowances are 1/4".

 

Step 1: Cutting. 

From your chicken body fabric, cut a rectangle 5.5x6.5 inches, and a 2x2 inch square. 

From your background fabric, cut 3 squares, 2x2 inches, a strip 6.5x2 inches, and a strip 5.5x2 inches. 

From your beak fabric, cut a 1.25" square. 

From your comb fabric, cut 2 rectangles about 2x2.5 inches.

 

Step 2: Draw diagonal lines on all your squares except for one of the background fabric squares. Mine are kind of light, I will make up for that by stitching them in a bright color so you can see them better! (It was a good excuse to not change my thread.)

 

Step 3: Stitch on all the diagonal lines as shown in the above photo. The stitching on the tail square doesn't show up really well--it goes from the upper left corner to the bottom right corner. 

Step 4: Trim the excess fabric along the seams you just sewed, leaving about 1/4" seam allowance.

Step 5: Press your seam allowances toward the darker fabric. Also, draw a comb shape on one of the comb fabric pieces (this didn't show up very well in my photo, sorry). You can use a water soluble marker or whatever else you have on hand. I used a regular pen and will put the side with ink facing backwards when I stitched it into the block. Place the 2 comb fabric rectangles wrong sides together. 

Step 6: Sew close to your comb shape drawing, and cut out the comb shape close to your stitching. Pin the comb so that the bottom edge lines up with the bottom edge of the upper left rectangle and the right side is about 1/4" in from the right edge of that rectangle. You can baste it in place if you want, or not. 

 

Step 7: Sew the two left pieces and the two right pieces together. Press the seam on the left side down and the seam on the right side up.

Step 8: Sew the right side and left side together, nesting the seam allowances so they match up well. Press that seam and you're done! 

If you make a chicken quilt block using this tutorial, I'd love to see it! Can you think of any variations? Maybe a patchwork chicken, maybe a wing, maybe a change in size... I might have to make a couple more of these.

Also I would love to see your chicken blocks on instagram, feel free to tag me @vickidjl and use the hashtag #chickenquilt.

 

Update March 2025
All images and designs are copyright protected. Please feel free to share the link to this blog post. Do not sell patterns based on this block or rewrite the instructions for this block to distribute to others. You may use this tutorial to make personal projects as well as items you make for sale. Thank you for respecting my intellectual property and copyright.

How To Make A T-Shirt

I am getting a lot of visits from people googling "how to make a t-shirt" so I thought I'd oblige you.



First off, you need a pattern. You can trace one from an existing shirt, but I'm not covering that step in this tutorial. I'm using the size 4 t-shirt pattern from my beloved vintage Sew for Toddler. All the patterns for this book are on a large pattern sheet and you have to trace off the size you want. I usually trace my patterns onto freezer paper. If you look closely you can see I traced the wrong size first; I don't remember what happened there but it was one of two tracings I have of this pattern. My pattern has 4 pieces: front, back, sleeve, and neckband.



I have a pretty big piece of this fabric, so to waste the least amount of fabric and also be able to manage the whole thing, I cut out one pattern piece at a time. I'm starting with the front--the center front edge needs to be on placed on the fold of the fabric. I look closely at the fabric and make sure the tiny knit stitches are running straight (not at an angle) with my foldline. Also, the stretch of this fabric is going up and down in the photo, or across the body of the t-shirt front and back pattern pieces. You want to cut your knits out with the stretch going the right way.

This picture shows the front already cut out.



Then I do the same with the back. First I cut off the small amount of scrap from cutting the front and then I refold the fabric wide enough to do the back. Here you can see my cute pattern weights. I don't pin my patterns--I use pattern weights and rotary cut around the edges of my patterns. You can use scissors if you don't have a rotary cutter. I need to sharpen my scissors and get a new rotary blade--cutting this out wasn't as easy and fun as it should have been.



The sleeve. Again I refold so I have enough width to lay out the sleeve pattern. See that long straight line? It's the pattern grainline and should line up with the grain of the fabric. In other words, line up with straight up and down lines of knitted stitches in the fabric. If you've ever had a t-shirt that twisted around your body when you were wearing it, it was cut off grain. It's not hard to make sure your fabric and patterns are on grain when you're cutting.



Neckline ribbing. This fabric is laid out with the stretch going left to right. The pattern piece is laid on the fold. I used a cotton/lycra ribknit for this piece. If your main shirt fabric is ribbed or fairly stretchy, you can use the same fabric for the neckline. This shirt fabric is a jersey that's not really stretchy enough to go over my boy's head and not have stitches pop right away.



Here are all the pattern pieces cut out.



Sewing step 1: Place front and back pieces together with right sides facing. Match the pieces up at the shoulder and pin them if you want.



Here they are serged together. Before I had a serger I would sew the seam, then zigzag the edges together because I don't like unfinished edges.



Sewing step 2: Pin the top center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.



Pin the front and back edges of the sleeve seam. This is kind of difficult to show in a photo.



Here's the shirt with both sleeves sewn on.



Sewing step 3: Fold the shirt so the front and back line up and the sleeve edges line up. Starting at the sleeve hem edge, and all at once, sew the sleeve edges together, then the front and back together at the sides. Do both sides.



Here's the shirt with sleeve/side seams sewn.

Sewing step 4: Sewing the neckband on is explained here in my T-shirt neckband tutorial.



Sewing step 5: Fold the sleeve edges and bottom edge up once and stitch in place. I have a "why you don't need a free arm to sew hems of small sleeves" tutorial that I'll share soon.

There you go!

Quilt Binding Tutorial

This tutorial is for binding a quilt with straight edges using binding strips cut on the straight grain from your own fabric (not purchased binding).




First of all you need to cut your binding strips. I used strips that were 1 7/8" wide but if it's your first time you should probably use 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" strips. You'll have to figure out how many strips you need to go all the way around your quilt with several inches to spare. You can use math, or cut the strips and physically lay them around the edge of the quilt until you have enough. I've done scrappy quilt bindings before using several different fabrics, and used the physically-laying-it-out method for those quilts.



Using the angle lines on your ruler or mat, cut the ends of the strips to a 45 degree angle.


Cut both ends the same way so the strips are very long parallelograms.

To get them ready to piece together, set two strips next to each other.


Then, flip one over on top of the other so the edges line up for sewing. You will sew a 1/4" seam, so they need to line up 1/4" in from the edge. Pin it.

Sew it. Sew all the strips together this way. The diagonal seam here helps spread out the bulk of the seam, since you'll be folding the binding strip over itself a couple times.

Go to the ironing board; press the binding seams. I press to one side, you can press them open if you want but that's more work.


Now press the entire binding strip in half the long way.


Next, find the end of your binding strip. If your parallelogram went the opposite way from mine, cut the corner off so it points the way mine does in this picture. Press the short edge in 1/4".


Fold it in half lengthwise and press this end again.


You can't really see it in this picture, but I'm leaving it anyway. Lay out the binding around the quilt, with the end you just fiddled with in the middle of one of the sides. Check the seams on the binding to make sure there aren't any of them on the corners of the quilt. If there are, adjust your starting position. Pin the binding in place at the starting position and go to your machine.


For the entire perimeter of the quilt, you need to match up the binding and quilt edge and sew 1/4" in from that edge. I leave the extra backing and batting until after the binding is sewn on. To begin, you will be making a little slot to put the end of the binding in when you get back to your starting place. Open up the fold of the binding and sew down just the bottom layer for about 2 inches. Stop sewing and cut your threads.

Edited 9/2012: *For another way of finishing up the beginning and end of your binding strips (with a diagonal seam) see this blog post.*

Now fold the binding back up and start sewing both layers of the binding down, about 1 3/4 inches down from the beginning.


Sew the binding down that first side. I found that it helped if I pulled the binding a bit taut while sewing. When you get to the corner, stop sewing 1/4" from the edge of the quilt top. Backstitch and cut your threads.


Now, turn the quilt 90 degrees, and fold the binding straight up. Hold that diagonal fold with your finger.


And now, fold it down. You might want to pin.


Start sewing the next side at the edge of the fabric; stop 1/4" from the edge and do the corner thing again. Repeat until you've done all 4 corners.


When you get back around to where you started, you need to trim the end of your binding strip so it will fit in the little pocket you made at the beginning. I trimmed the end of my binding strip so about 1/2" of it went into the slot area past the angled part of the beginning of the binding. You have to look closely to see it in this photo.


Now you get to trim the quilt. For the 1 7/8" binding, I needed to cut the backing and batting right up to the edge of my binding. For wider binding strips, leave a little bit of batting beyond the edge. I have had a couple quilts in quilt shows and one of my judging sheets once explained that it's better (in official quilt world, I guess) to have the binding kind of puffy and nicely filled out than to let it be saggy, limp, and empty. In other words, I got bad marks for not having puffy binding, so learn from my mistakes.


I hand sew the binding to the back of the quilt. I use a ladder stitch, it's my main hand sewing stitch that my mom taught me when I was little. You can use whatever stitch you like. I try to sew the binding down far enough to cover the machine stitching that sewed it to the front of the quilt.


When you get to the corner, trim the seam allowance a bit more than you did on the straight edge.


(I'm left handed. If you aren't, this picture may not look quite right. I sew from the left to the right.) I try to fold the binding down on the top side of the corner, and sew it down past where the seam turns the corner.


Then, I fold the next side down and stitch it in place. I usually put a couple stitches in the binding where it folds on top of itself (the mitered corner), and then continue sewing down the next side of the binding.


All done! I hope this make sense. As always, comment or email me at vickivictoria at the google email service if you have questions or comments!